08
October

Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and the Philosophy of Fashion by Charlie Porter review – style revolution | Art and design books

By avi maxwel / in , , , , , , , , , , , , /

When Virginia Woolf invited TS Eliot down for a country weekend in 1920 she concluded with “Please bring no clothes”. This was not a suggestion that “Tom” should arrive in East Sussex naked. Such a possibility was unlikely anyway since at this point the poet was still working as a buttoned-up clerk at Lloyds Bank. Eliot was famously wedded to his three-piece suit to the point where, Woolf joked, he would have worn a four-piece one if such a thing existed. What she meant by “bring no clothes” was that at Monk’s House they did not dress for dinner, change for church (there was no church), or worry about getting their best clothes grubby in the garden. This was Bloomsbury, albeit a rural version, and the clothing conventions to which the rest of upper-middle-class society had returned after the first world war had no place there.

Fashion journalist Charlie Porter is spot-on with his suggestion that the way the circle thought about clothes was part of a wider revolt against the late-Victorian society in which its members had been raised (Woolf was born in 1882, Eliot six years later). Choosing not to wear black tie for dinner or gloves “in

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31
March

Style Check: Vita Kari’s eccentric fashion and performance art

By avi maxwel / in , , , , , , , /

This text first appeared in Reviewed’s Style Check newsletter. Be the first to receive style horoscope, fit checks, and deals weekly directly in your inbox by subscribing now.

It’s finally spring, which means you’re likely ready to get started on your spring cleaning. Personally, I’ve avoided cleaning out my closet for the last few years. Like many of you reading this, my body went through some drastic changes during the pandemic years, and I’ve held onto all of my old clothes—both the bigger and smaller pieces—in hopes that one day they’ll fit properly (or serve as fashion-insurance when my body inevitably changes again!).

A few days ago, it occurred to me that I have about a hundred T-shirts—and only wear about 10 of them regularly—so I’ve decided that this is the weekend I take inventory and make sense of the mess. I’ll be going through my entire wardrobe, trying on every single item, parting with the pieces I no longer love, and cataloging everything else. If you’ve been holding onto all of your old clothes a bit too long, I welcome you to join me in this monumental undertaking.

This week, I’m beyond excited to introduce you to Vita Kari.

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