08
September

Sino-French fashion: How 60 years of diplomatic ties changed world style

By avi maxwel / in , , , , , , , /

Sino-French fashion: How 60 years of diplomatic ties changed world style

Yves Saint Laurent by Tom Ford Chinese Dragon blouse FW 2004 Collection

In the vibrant tapestry of global fashion, few threads are as intertwined and influential as those of France and China. As the 60th anniversary of diplomatic ties between the two nations approaches, it is an opportune moment to delve into the rich history and development of Sino-French fashion exchanges.

From the cobbled streets of Paris to the pulsating runways of Shanghai, this Gallic-Oriental style fusion transcends borders, weaves through the intricate fabric of tradition and innovation, and stitches together a rich tapestry of international fashion.

Against the backdrop of the dynamic Sino-French interplay, it’s essential to acknowledge the profound influence of legendary French luxury houses, known for their enduring elegance, eternal sophistication, and flawless workmanship.

Sino-French fashion: How 60 years of diplomatic ties changed world style

Hermès, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Cartier are just a few of the many renowned French luxury and fashion brands that have graced the world with their timeless designs and impeccable craftsmanship.

These

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13
August

I’m 70 years old — why shouldn’t my clothes convey my sexuality, and sense of style?

By avi maxwel / in , , , , , , /

Editor’s Note: This piece is excerpted from Lyn Slater’s “How to Be Old: Lessons in Living Boldly from the Accidental Icon” with permission from Plume, imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC. © 2024 by Lyn Slater.

(CNN) — In the fall of 2019, I received an e-mail from a group of Parsons Fashion Design and Society MFA students who had been given the assignment to make a collection of clothes for “seniors,” as part of a course that involves creating designs that focus on disabled, plus-size, transgender and aging people. The students were divided into four teams, with each team charge to find a muse/collaborator within their respective category — to ensure primary research and a meaningful outcome. The students asked me for an interview, hoping that I might become their muse.

The students had gone around to senior centers, asking what older people want in their clothing. The answers — focused more on issues of fit, comfort and disguising signs of age — had discouraged them. Though these elements are important, the students seemed to want an aesthetic of age that could inspire them; they want to make old age high fashion, something beyond just function. (I think to

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14
July

The Fashion Power 100 list: every industry style player ranked

By avi maxwel / in , , , , , , /

The fashion industry is worth around £1.2 trillion and is estimated to employ around 430 million people globally. But what does power in fashion mean now? Fashion is a followers’ game but the real influence happens on the high street and in your wardrobe. The (mostly male) billionaires might be holding the purse strings, but we’re wearing the merch. We’ve looked at the industry and its tributaries from every which way — is a footballer more powerful than an industry favourite designer if everyone’s copying their style? Are the traditional titans of publishing holding their own over the stars of social media? And what of the Kardashian Klan? 

The Standard Fashion Power 100 list is, in reality, a work in progress. Over the next 12 months these names will fall in and out of favour; one viral campaign image can propel a person to the top of everyone’s feed and one spurious post can get them momentarily cancelled. But for 2023, looking at revenue, followers, old-fashioned clout — and, most crucially, total cut through — we’ve compiled the 100 names which we think are directing the most critical element of all — what we’re all actually wearing. 

Non-executive chair of

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02
July

‘Chefcore’ is the a la mode restaurant-inspired style you’ll actually want to wear | Fashion

By avi maxwel / in , , , , , , /

There’s a trend bubbling up in restaurant kitchens, and this time it’s got nothing to do with small plates. “Chefcore”, as coined by the menswear writer Clayton Chambers, has chefs ditching their traditional formal whites for a more casual aesthetic.

For a long time, no one cared what chefs wore, either inside or outside the kitchen. However, thanks to TV shows such as The Bear – where Carmy’s (Jeremy Allen White) perfect white T-shirt gained a cult following and (spoiler alert!) he gives protege Sydney a custom Thom Browne chef’s jacket – customers are as keen to know the brand of clothes a chef is wearing as they are the specials.

Look around your favourite eatery and you’re likely to spot that stiff, long-sleeved jackets have been replaced by Carmy-esque biceps-grazing T-shirts while torque hats have been ousted by baseball caps.

Jeremy Allen White as Carmy in The Bear. Photograph: Matt Dinerstein/FX Networks

It’s a trend that is heating up in front of the pass, too. London’s celebrated nose-to-tail restaurant St John recently swapped its front-of-house formal whites for laid-back corduroy tailoring, teaming up with the Savile Row tailor Drake’s on a clothing collection.

At Osip, a farm-to-table

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01
July

Debunking the dream: Is working in fashion going out of style?

By avi maxwel / in , , , , /

The 10-minute survey was shared with Vogue Business newsletter subscribers, shared online via LinkedIn and Instagram, and directly with over 350 industry contacts. The data analysis was conducted by an internal Condé Nast custom research team, alongside the writers of this series. Statistical comparisons between groups were used at a 95 per cent confidence interval.

In order to take the survey, respondents had to be over 16 and work in the fashion industry. Among respondents, 55 per cent were under the age of 35, and 44 per cent were over 35 (one per cent preferred not to answer). Women made up 80 per cent of respondents, and men made up 18 per cent (two per cent self-described or preferred not to answer). Thirty per cent were freelance, and 67 per cent were engaged in full-time employment. In terms of seniority, 61 per cent held managerial positions.

There are some inevitable limitations to this data. While the survey was shared with a global audience, the majority of respondents were based in the US (35 per cent) and the UK (30 per cent). Due to cultural sensitivities and differing legal constraints on data collection, questions about race/ethnicity and sexuality were only asked

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